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    Elementary questions about electronics

    Beginner looking for advice


    Hello All,

    Please excuse the beginner questions; this is my first attempt at
    etching a PCB.

    I bought some 2oz dbl sided boards, and will be etching them using
    Sodium Persulphate. I've done the traces using press-n-peal blue. I do
    not yet have an elaborate set up, and I'm looking for any advice your
    willing to share.

    I've read that I should add 1/2lb Sodium Persulphate crystals to 1
    gallon of warm water. The board should be submerged until the copper
    that is not protected is dissolved. Am I missing anything? Any tips or
    tricks that would be helpful? will this solution be strong enough? How
    does one dispose of the remaining etching solution?

    Lastly the board is a breakout of sorts, taking a db25 and directing
    the individual wires to terminal connectors. The board will be exposed
    to short pulses (1-3 seconds) of 24VDC @ up to 5 amps. The traces are
    1/16th of an inch thick and separated by only 1/32th of an inch in
    many places. This board will not be used for transferring signals,
    just on or off for short durations. Does this sound ok?

    Thanks,
    Brian

    sounds fine how ever, I think for the 5 amps you're using, you may want
    to consider using wider traces for that path.

        And as far as the etching  goes, warming up the solution makes it
    etch faster.

    --
    "I'm never wrong, once i thought i was, but was mistaken"
    Real Programmers Do things like this.
    http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5

    -----------------------------------------------Reply-----------------------------------------------

    "Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1l@charter.net> wrote in message

    news:udu0i.1024$Qq6.563@newsfe12.lga...

    According to my trace width calculator, 5 amps on a 62 mil trace with
    standard 1 ounce copper will only cause a temperature rise of about 25 C,
    so 1/16 wide is fine, especially for short pulses. I found the calculator
    (an Excel spreadsheet) on an internet search. I can send it to you if you
    wish. Try http://www.geocities.com/suppanz/TraceWidth.htm.

    When I etched my own boards many moons ago, I found that it was very
    important to clean the copper very thoroughly before applying resist.
    ScotchBrite with soap and water worked well. Just a little bit of oil or
    oxide on the exposed copper made for slow etching in those areas, and
    overetching under the resist.

    Also, I found it better to drill the holes before etching. Otherwise,
    sometimes the drill would catch the pad and pull it loose.

    Good luck.

    Paul

    -----------------------------------------------Reply-----------------------------------------------

    On 9 May 2007 17:36:39 -0700, Cat <paone@gmail.com> wrote:

    Are you sure it wasn't Ammonium Persulphate you bought? That's what I
    use and it is mixed at 200gm per litre of water.

    -----------------------------------------------Reply-----------------------------------------------

    "Cat" <paone@gmail.com> wrote in message

    news:1178757399.032168.128060@q75g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...

    Use in a ventilated area, and follow all precautions for this chemical.
    Sodium Persulphate is a strong oxidizer and will combine with many things to
    make it dangerous. Read the MSDS. You mentioned double sided boards, DS
    boards are a little tricky for a beginner and you will be putting a lot of
    unused copper in the mix.

    Good luck,
    Tom

    -----------------------------------------------Reply-----------------------------------------------

    Thanks for the advice everyone. The more I read the more I wondered if
    I was going to need a fish tank heater and bubbler, etc.

    On May 9, 9:27 pm, "Paul E. Schoen" <pst@smart.net> wrote:

    > According to my trace width calculator, 5 amps on a 62 mil trace with
    > standard 1 ounce copper will only cause a temperature rise of about 25 C,
    > so 1/16 wide is fine, especially for short pulses.

    I was most worried about the closeness of traces (only 1/32th of an
    inch) glad no one points this out as a problem.

    > Also, I found it better to drill the holes before etching. Otherwise,
    > sometimes the drill would catch the pad and pull it loose.

    This is good advice I'd not seen anyone recommend this yet. I will
    give it a go before etching.

    How about that green lacquer that is on a commercial board. Does
    anyone here have any experience applying this to a home etched board?

    -----------------------------------------------Reply-----------------------------------------------

    That green coating is the solder mask.  It keeps the wave-soldering
    process from coating all of the copper, conserving solder.  A
    hand-soldered board doesn't really need it.
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